Grind areas so therre are no sharp "vees" or sharp corners, going for "easy transitions". I personally just used a good light, magnifying glass and a scriber to probe with. You can do a dye pentrant test if you are comfortable and familiar with it to verfiy you ground past the base of any cracking. To repair the anvil, you will need to grind out the areas which have been chipped or cracked. As welded hardness will be 55-60 Rockwell C. MG 710 weld deposits are non-machineable and must be ground to shape the repaired areas of the anvil. A 5 lb container of MG 710 stood me 100 bucks over 10 years ago. It can be used for repair/buildup welding on most tool steels. I did some research into the matter, and came up with a specialty electrode made by MG Messer. I rresurfaced and repaired a few anvils using stick welding. Do you know, is it an English anvil (Peter Wright, Mouse, etc.) ? American (Fisher, Hay Budden, Trenton, etc.) ? Other ? Is it an ASO (Anvil Shaped Object) ? If the later, toss it and don't bother fixing it. If you can post pics, it could be determined what type of anvil it is. If it's not a decent anvil, it might not be worth fixing. You should have looked at the anvil closer when you bought it. It's a lot of work and unless you can do it yourself, an experienced welder will charge a fair amount of coin to do the work. All voids need to be filled and/or brought up so that the top can be ground flat.
Oh the anvil weight is around 75-100lbsYes, most can be fixed with some welding, but in some cases you need an experienced welder that knows how to do that type of work. I'm guessing I need to heat up the anvil to about 400✯ then let it normalize or controlled cooling.(bury it in sand like bean hole beans) Would it be a normal cast iron welding rod? I have a propane torch to heat up the anvil to do the welding. Now would it be possible to reface the surface the anvil on my mill? I have a welder that can handle the anvil if there is a rod that would work to fill in the hole. I will post photos of the anvil if I remember to snap a photo when I'm outback working. The surface is uneven and one side looks as if it had gotten a nice chunk removed and filled with a bubble gum weld. It was defiantly made to look good for the sell. I bought a anvil a year or two back and I found that it was covered in the resin crap that broke up on the first use.